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AIS Removal - GT650R EFI

Samwise · 7 · 2719

Offline Samwise

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This is my take on the removal of the AIS system.

After learning about the AIS system and realising it was messing with my PCV and Autotune, I wanted it gone quick smart. So I bought a couple of things today and went to it. The hardest and most time consuming part was removing the actual pump, without pulling off the coolant hose. If you remove the coolant hose it would be quite easy, but I didn't want to get fluid everywhere.

The pump motor measures apx 20 ohms and without the pump in place the ECU will display a fault. We'll get to that bit later.

You can see inside the pump it's just two steel flaps/paddles that act as a non return valve. So when the pressure in the exhaust is lower than the pressure provided by the pump, fresh air will be fed into the exhaust. I believe this is done to meet emission standards and all that carry on. But it's messing with my autotune, so it has to go.

Physically the unit could be left in place and simply unplugging the power to the pump will stop any fresh air being fed into the exhaust.

I sealed up the steel tubes from the exhaust ports with some heat shrink so no water could get in and cause rust etc. It also just makes it look better. You could actually cut the tube if you never plan to refit the AIS. I have done everything so it is reversible if need be.

As you can also see in the picture, I've simply soldered a drawing pin/thumb tack into the hole. This is mainly to hold it in place while it's bolted back in place, although the soft solder will help seal it up too. Not sure if the solder will melt at exhaust temps, but I can't see it being a problem if it does. The pin/tack is in nice and tight.

Here is the front one in place

Don't forget to plug up the hole now left in the airbox where the pump was hooked up. I just removed the other bung and linked a hose between the two. I'd rather get another bung to tidy it up, but the hose works fine for now.

You'll need a 10W resistor. I used a 47 ohm which appears to be successful. You could use a 22 ohm to closer match the resistance of the pump, but it just means more current and the resistor will get hotter. 47 ohm works and it won't get as hot.
I wrapped this up in heat shrink to insulate it and keep it tidy.

I then traced the wiring back to the ECU loom. There are several wires of the same colour, so if you're not confident tracing them back, just run wires down to the existing plug. Alternatively mount the resistor where the pump was. I wanted to keep it out of the weather, so I mounted on the frame under the seat.

I hope this is helpful to anyone looking into removing the AIS on an EFI bike.

2013 (2010) GT650R EFI
2006 GT250 Carb/Naked (SOLD)

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